Milford Sound is actually a dramatic fiord, carved out by ancient glaciers – with Mitre Peak standing over a mile high (1,683 m / 5,522 ft), and the near vertical cliffs plunging another 300 – 500 m (1,000 – 1,600 ft) below sea level.

There are only three ways to access this remote location (drive, fly, or boat). This is located at a very inhospitable latitude (about 45 degrees South), so sailing here is best limited to one of the very few cruises that may venture this way. Flying is only possible by helicopter or small (tiny) airplane – as the landing strip is small … but this is clearly the fastest way to get there, and provides some incredible views of the Southern Alps and Fiordland (Milford Sound is one of 14 different fiords, but the only one that is readily accessible).

Most people have to travel to Milford Sound by road … which is about 2+ hours drive from Te Anau, or 4-5 hrs drive from Queenstown (and you’re going to want to stop and take photos at numerous points along the way. There is limited accommodation at Milford Sound, and must be booked in advance … otherwise you’ll be making the return drive later in the day. We especially love the scenery on either side of the Homer tunnel … but the view on your way into Milford is especially dramatic as you can see below (it’s a lot bigger in real life).

Milford Sound holds a special place in my heart as the world famous Milford Track was one of my first major ‘tramps’ (multi-day hike) when I was about 16. The Milford Track starts at Lake Te Anau and takes you through rainforests, past amazing waterfalls, and over remote alpine wilderness, ending at aptly named Sandfly Point in Milford Sound. This 53.5 km / 33-mile one-way track typically takes 4 days / 3 nights and requires advance booking far in advance, with huts and lodges along the way. It’s famous for its stunning views but also for its significant rainfall, so be prepared. There are options for both guided or independent hiking during the Great Walks season (Nov-Apr). 

No trip to Milford Sound would be complete without a cruise out on the fiord, and generally we prefer the smaller boats. I’ve been sure to take my wife to this unspoiled and remote wonderland on three occasions, and it never disappoints. It’s important to note that it rains a lot, so you may not get the long-distant views shown in our photos … but you’ll get to see more waterfalls than you can count, as they literally cascade down every rock face.

The scale of everything is hard to describe in words, or even in photos. Stirling Falls in the background below, is 155m / 508 ft tall, with the cliffs on each side being a little over 1 km / 3,300 ft each. These mountains are so immense when you are up close to them, and provides a humble reminder of how small we are in the grand scheme of things.

Here’s a slightly different perspective from the plane that we took into Milford on one of our visits (please excuse the slight reflection from inside the plane).

There is interesting wildlife to see, with seals and penguins being the most fun to us. Usually you have to be quick to get the good photos, and a good camera would be a big plus.

As an engineer I was particularly interested in the Alpine Fault line which is clearly visible near the mouth of the fiord, as you can see in the photo below – see the large jagged ‘crack’ that climbs the mountain (between the two red arrows). This fault line ruptures about every 300 years, and is a little overdue for it’s next shake. New Zealand has been called the Shaky Isles on account of the frequent seismic activity (earthquakes).

Dad’s Recommendation: There are a lot of bus day-trips from Queenstown, so it’s best to get into Milford before all those extra people show up. There is a morning Kayak option that I’ve heard is good, but I’ve never done it. The only other thing I haven’t done in Milford Sound is the overnight ‘cruise’, and would love to do that on a future trip.

Travel Tips: Book far in advance … this is a popular place, and ensure you have a good raincoat handy. I would recommend staying in Te Anau and leave for Milford early in the morning. Don’t forget to also visit the Glow worm caves during your stay in Te Anau.